Here is the process of attaching the aileron control tube guides.
Here's what I ended up doing for the aileron turning pulley bracket. The two-piece version didn't work well with my pullies, but this three-piece is great. The pulley sandwiched in the middle prevents the pieces from racking.
Here is the aft tip uppers brace freshly installed. It just barely touches the last rib, so it should be well supported. I was thinking of lashing these together with a fiberglass tow.
Other than the pictures, I checked off a few items from the to do list:
- DONE install bolts on aileron turning pulley
- DONE install correct length bolts on both aileron pulley brackets
- DONE correct bolts for horizontal tail strut lower attachments (G4T19)
- DONE move left aileron control line to below the cross-brace cable at the root area
- DONE attach snap hook on elevator control arm with shock cord
- DONE install correct length bolts both aileron and flap hinges (there is an AN3-6 in place of an AN3-4)
- DONE install correct AN3-5 bolts into cabane hinges
- DONE bolt lengths and cotter pins on cabane to wing attachments
- DONE cabanes don't fold nicely against bottom of wing ... turned out that I needed to move cabanes to be inside the hinges, rather than one inside, one outside. Good to do this before match drilling the new nose carry-through tube since it'll affect the alignment.
- DONE check if rudder pedal hinges have cotter pins ... they don't, but they'll be removed for covering and I'll have to check that every castle nut has a cotter pin.
- DONE enlarge holes and deburr the aileron crank tube plates so the stainless part don't rub a sharp edge
- DONE check if the control stick axis bolt has a cotter pin ... it does not, needs to be changed
- DONE confirm there is a sleeve in the nose tube lower attachment (had to add)
- DONE trim nose skid tube to length
- DONE aft tip brace left wing
- DONE glass wrap on aileron control tube guides (4x total)
- DONE flip side of flap panel flange and bolt directions (see G4S10)
- DONE glass the right flap ribs
- DONE glass the left aileron ribs
- DONE hard-points for the flap control flanges (left)
- DONE hard-points for the flap control flanges (right)
- DONE right wing aft tip brace
- change control stick axis bolt to drilled with cotter pin
- flip aft aileron control horn bolt to other direction
- rivet aileron crank tube to trailing edge (G4S4)
- round off the tail skid to be more roundy than pointy
- new cabane aft tubes
- cabane compression braces (some are loose after the cabane rework from G3 to G4 design)
- AN3-26A bolt into the forward line guide bracket, replacing a rivet (G4T14)
- aileron crank tube slot
- make a nose skid (G4N10)
- glass the right aileron ribs
- glass the ribs to LE and TE
- leading edge shell (G4S9)
- sidewalls in forward nose section (G4N13)
- swage aft cables (4x remaining)
- stiffener for aileron control line
- wrap every pulley with tape and heat shrink to hold stiff and straight
- threadlock on every quick-link
- neoprene eyebolt spacer: horizontal stab (G4T8), elevator control arm (G4T16), tail strut (G4T19)
- check every quick pin for elastic retainers are both present and correct length (several are just singles)
- (1x) AN3-26A for G4T14
- (2x) 1/8" stainless steel quick-link
- find a better seat and then actually attach it ... I like what EC Goat did for a seat ... I also found a few go-kart seat options (thanks for the tip Jeff)
- covering & adhesive
- nose skid plastic plate
- 1" fiberglass tape
- 3M Super 77 spray adhesive
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